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1/06/2014

巴斯 (Bath) - 走進羅馬帝國與喬治時代歷史文化交融的城鎮

踏出巴斯思巴 (Bath Spa) 火車站,你會覺得自己走進一個18至19世紀喬治時代的城鎮,甚至感受到古羅馬的氣息;就是沒有21世紀的繁俗。有這樣的感應並不出奇,巴斯的街道編織著新古典風格 (Neoclassical) 的建築,偶爾穿插羅馬式 (Romanesque) 的建築。對於有懷舊情懷的人,巴斯絕對是值得多番走訪。但是巴斯為何有今日的面貌?要知其所以然,我會跟上次寫關於約克一樣,先從歷史探究。




巴斯的歷史架構比約克更簡單,大致只需分兩個時期;羅馬帝國開發為休憩城鎮的時期及18世紀城鎮活化的復甦時期。


羅馬帝國開發的巴斯 - 休憩城鎮:

羅馬軍團在公元43年登陸/入侵不列顛,由於巴斯在不列顛東南,相對接近古倫敦(Londinium),而且羅馬人聽聞巴斯有地熱水泉(今日普遍叫溫泉),所以他們不久就開始探勘巴斯。在那時巴斯是凱爾特人 (Celts) 的拓居村落,而地熱水源的原址只是一片沼澤,凱爾特人只是在那裡建了一座普通的神殿,貢奉女神蘇利斯 (Sulis) 。大約在公元60年,羅馬軍有見凱爾特"蠻族" "唔識寶",荒廢地熱泉這個珍貴的自然資源,就想佔有當時凱爾特人的沼澤。但一方面巴斯距離羅馬有一段路程,打仗的話補給不便,另一方面他們在長年的征戰過程中明白到勉強無幸福的道理,所以不想強佔凱爾特人的土地;只是跟當地凱爾特人談判說會開墾沼澤,以及建更美的神殿,不但貢奉羅馬的神,而且照凱爾特人的傳統,貢奉女神蘇利斯(相等於羅馬人的女神米纳瓦 Minerva,女神米纳瓦又近似希臘神話中的女神雅典娜 Athena)。更把凱爾特人的女神名字前置以示尊重,故名女神蘇利斯 米纳瓦 Sulis Minerva。而巴斯當時更被命名為 Aquae Sulis ,意解女神蘇利斯的水源。


女神蘇利斯 米纳瓦的雕像,驟眼看滿臉鬍子,的確不像一個女神。但歷史學家說那些不是鬍子。
這個是當時貢奉女神蘇利斯 米纳瓦的神殿的拱門頂。碎片經考古整合現展示於羅馬淋浴博物館內 (Roman Baths)。












羅馬人習慣地中海的溫暖氣候,不列顛的寒冷的天氣對他們的確是一種挑戰。而且羅馬人重衛生,喜歡淋浴,但寒冷的天氣大大減退羅馬人淋浴的興趣。所以 Aquae Sulis的溫泉正正是羅馬人在不列顛抵抗嚴寒的抗生素。自此羅馬人不時會蜂擁 Aquae Sulis ,使它成為羅馬帝國在不列顛島的主要休憩城鎮。今日叫 Bath 仍保留當年羅馬人到這個城鎮 take a bath 的意思。

羅馬人的淋浴習俗亦非常講究(今日到伊斯坦堡的公眾淋浴 Public Bath 亦是流傳自那時的羅馬的),澡堂分多個區域,每個區域都有其特別功用。羅馬人稱他們的公眾浴場為 thermae (有"熱"的意思),內籠以淋浴的先後次序列又分為更衣室(Apodyterium)、冷水浴室(frigidarium)、溫水浴室(tepidarium)、熱水浴室(caldarium)、和干蒸氣浴(laconicum)。羅馬淋浴博物館有一個場區專門(亦有專人)介紹這個羅馬淋浴的五步曲,相當有趣。


羅馬人的浴場亦設神殿,神殿又擺放祭祀的祭壇。羅馬人征服不列顛的時候耶教仍不是羅馬的主流教派,今日叫的異教 (paganism)才是主流,所以仍有祭動物的宗教儀式。
羅馬的建築原來除了厚牆圓柱外,在著色上亦有所講究。
巴斯當年城中心的模型,有浴場,神殿,議事廳等等。
沐浴後羅馬人亦流行擲毫許願。














自公元四世紀初," 蠻族"開始大遷移 (the Great Migration)(歷史學家分析主因之一是 "匈人" (Huns)的無故西遷,這些匈人亦可能就是我們常叫的匈奴),羅馬從高盧 (Gaul)大舉調軍地中海盆地;之後亞拉里特一世 (Alaric I) 帶領西哥德人 (Visigoths) 殺入羅馬後,羅馬很快就放棄了對不列顛的操控,安格魯人 (Angles) 及撒克遜人 (Saxons)這兩個德意志部族就佔英了,開始安格魯撒克遜 (Anglo-saxons) 時代;但是巴斯顯然不是他們的重點城鎮,他們在巴斯的遺跡因而亦相當有限。在此之後,巴斯再度被忽視,又一度沉淪為廢墟死池。直至1687年,英女皇瑪麗二世 (Mary II),在求子心切下到巴斯沐浴,奇蹟誕下兒子後,巴斯才重振名聲。在18世紀開始更被喬治時代的幾個國皇重新設計及發展。

18世紀喬治時代的巴斯-城鎮活化復甦時期:

其實今日在巴斯見到的都是喬治時代的建物,羅馬色彩的建築大部分都是仿古再造的。

典型的喬治時代建築。














 羅馬色彩的建築。

這些羅馬式的闊街是在18世紀巴斯在意大利的建築師 Andrea Palladio 父子銳意在巴斯建新羅馬 (New Rome) 時設計的。在他兩父子手筆下,巴斯瀰漫著新古典的氣息。









18世紀的英國一片繁盛,上流社會及中產開始講究生活態度。"行街"變為一種時尚,但要突顯身份的顯貴,就要在特定的地方行走。所以好像巴斯這些上流及中產人士聚居的地方就開始建豪庭大花園, Royal Crescent 就是好例子。

Royal Crescent,設計有點像羅馬的鬥獸場,都是兩邊拱形,由兩排屋宇包圍一個中型庭園。名流會在庭園散步,聽說由庭園一邊走到另一邊都要用上半天,可見他們是多麼的享受散步。哈



有的豪庭則設大花園,而且更用柵欄圍起,只供豪庭住客使用。
可以在這些地方散步,不用問都知身份顯貴,但是現代的英國人就會用 "Posh" 這個意帶貶義的字來形容這些人。











這些大花園其實是面向及一直延展至森林,在那時會用作狩獵場。但又怕野生動物襲擊散步的婦孺,所以又建小山坡以作防堤。











這些喬治時代的屋宇有趣的地方是地面見到的第一層其實是二樓,一樓是特意建在地面以下,因為那是僕人的居所。客人來的時候,僕人要退到地面以下,有藏陋的意思。在今日當然就沒有這樣的用途。

英國的城鎮就是有這樣的特色,每一塊磚頭背後都有它的故事。在這裡只是簡單記述巴斯的歷史,把它由羅馬時代的沐浴重鎮到18、19世紀喬治時代上流社會的散步天堂附圖短談。給懷舊的人一個懷舊的城鎮。










12/07/2013

York - What to do in York?

Having written about the history of York, in Chinese, in the last entry, I am going to focus more on the tourist attraction in York. York, despite being a forgotten city in modern times, has a relatively mature tourism industry. It's not a surprise given the city's world-class sights and scenic suburban area. Following my trail, you will learn more about what York has to offer.




I lived at a 14-bedded room at Ace York hotel over my 3 days and two nights' stay at York. It is not the best hotel you can find in York, but if you are travelling on a limited budget, this kind of hotel/hostel is definitely backpackers' best friend, satisfying all basic needs at a price almost half of a single-bedded room. 

 The grand look on the outside is another plus.
 I lived in one of these multi-bedded rooms. (from 4 - 14 beds a room, sharing one bathroom cubicle.)












Enough of the living bit of York. Since my hostel is on one side of the River Ouse; and the city centre, where the major tourist attractions reside, is on the other side. So the first thing is to cross the river. There are several bridges linking the two sides of the River Ouse, I usually use Ouse Bridge (closer to my hostel), or Lendal Bridge (closer to the tourist information centre).  

 Greeted by the River Ouse. (from the Lendal Bridge)
 River Ouse on a sunny day.



















It's always advisable to visit the tourist information centre to check out the what's on and special offer before exploring any UK city. 


The TI at York is just on the Museum Street; off the Lendal Bridge, keep walking straight. 






Loads of leaflets and booklets at your disposal. 











It's one of the best thing travelling within the UK that the local council office usually arrange free guided tour by enthusiastic local guide. They don't charge, and they are definitely worth your time. You can check out the departure time and meeting spot at the tourist information centre (usually in the morning, extra trip in the afternoon for weekends).

 Enthusiastic local guide explaining to us what a medieval street looks like.

Normally, there will be around 10 tourists in a group. (could be more in summer.)
















In the guided tour, the local guide will show you around the major historical/tourist sites and tell you the history behind it. British people's passion for their own history is always fascinating. 

St. Mary's Abbey 
You'll learn about how William the Conqueror carried out the cruel "Harrowing of the North", and how his son Rufus built churches to repent for his father's deed; and how Henry VIII demolished the Catholic churches in the times of religious reformation, including the St. Mary's Abbey in York.
Monk Bar
You'll learn about how the Romans, the Saxons and the Normans built city walls to defend their cities. And what practical and symbolic meaning are embodied in the "bars" ( in York, "bar" means gate, "gate" means street) like this one (Monk Bar).

You'll also learn the namesake of the bar, like Monk Bar is so called because there used to be mongers avoid paying tariff, set up booth to sell their stuffs just outside the bar/city. "Mon" + "Bar" thus Monk Bar.
You'll walk the city wall with the group, and feel what it was like when the soldiers in those times performed their duties on these thick walls.
Different symbolic signs on the city walls showing the changing allegiance of the city.
The Shambles, and the little shambles, are the most medieval streets in York. Shambles derived from the word "shammell" meaning a butcher's cutting block, and yes the Shambles used to be a medieval butcher street. 

Harry Potter's scene of Diagon Alley was filmed here!
The gate linking the Shambles and the Newgate Market (a market selling local produce/groceries). 

You can see how narrow the "gate" is, that's the characteristic of "gate", narrow and short, linking between streets.
More of Diagon Alley the Shambles.

The street is really photogenic, epitomising the rest of York.















After the walk, it's time to off exploring myself. York has got its share of museums and they can keep you occupied for the whole day.


Yorkshire Museum. (in the Museum Garden, near the St. Mary's Abbey.)

Greeted by the Roman statue of the God Mars (God of War), Yorkshire museum tells you more about the history of York and showcases the many archaeology in the Roman and Medieval times. It's worth two hours of your stay in York.






The York Castle Museum. (used to be York Prison Building founded by William the Conqueror after the "Harrowing of the North"). 

Now it showcases best of Victorian era and a time tunnel history of York, even of the GB. 
It was a good, sunny day the day I visited York Castle Museum. It's worth 4-5 hours of your time in there.
Just outside the York Castle Museum, there's Clifford's Tower, also founded by William the Conqueror. This tower further fortified the city of York at the time when Norman first came to England and Anglo-saxons still thought of rebelling against the invaders.

It's quite a long staircase. Good exercise before you can take a photo of the area, including a panoramic view of the York Castle Museum, from the vantage point. 

You need to pay to go inside the tower,  £4. I don't think the admission fee is worth its while, so I just climb the stairs and take photos from outside the tower.




Below shows some of York Castle Museum's collection. 


This is a display of what a room in Victorian time would look like.











A room in the Georgian time.
















More room, I think it's around late middle ages.












It also shows British people's quest for a full collection of pottery utensil. 











The Museum also has displays of more serious matter. Like this "Life and Death" session. 

It fleshes out how British people celebrate life and death in different times. 

This picture shows the black cloth Queen Victoria wear for three years in mourn for her husband's, Prince Albert's, death. 









Some classy clock.















Kirkgate 

This is one of my favorite in the museum, this is an reenactment of a street from Victorian era. 

Definitely gives you the taste of how the 19th century street would look like.
 Street photo of Kirkgate.



 Shops in those days did sell all kinds of stuffs.
Pharmacy looks fancy. 


















Next stop is the York Minster. It is the biggest, in size, Gothic Church north of the Alps. Its earliest foundation could trace all the way back to Roman times, and it's also been through middle ages, and Norman times. It also has more stained glass window than the sum of the rest of the UK. UK's 70% of stained glass is on/in this very church. So it's a church very worth visiting, even if you are tired of church and all that because you have been in too many.

 When the sun shines on it, it gives a very beautiful colour on its facet. 
 A Roman column is also displaying outside.
Guarded by the Roman emperor, Constantine I.

The first Catholic Roman Emperor, who was crowned emperor here in York. That's why the York people dedicated a statue to this particular Roman emperor.













 Close up of the pointy roof of the minster.

 The famous York stained glass windows.
 More of it.


The structure inside is amazing too. And it's echo is so good that when the priest makes announcement, he does sound somewhat more "godly", whatever that means.




A zoom-in of the roof net-structured top, it shows the roses symbols, symbolizing the merge of the houses of York and Lancaster. White in the middle and red in the background. (white rose represents house of York and red house of Lancaster.)










 The statues of the 15 kings after William the Conqueror.










Being fit enough and paying extra, you can choose to climb the tower, which I did. The command view of York is worth the arduous climb and the money.
 From the tower through the two lower towers, view of York stretching to the horizon.




From the tower, I zoom close to the St. Mary's Abbey. It certainly looked much smaller from so high up, but thanks to my high power digital camera, still able to capture the abbey clearly. LOL









 In the east wing, there's this grand hall where choir will be performing evensong every night.


It's free to join and experience the minster in spiritual and musical action. You can even take the seat of a bishop, or even archbishop. LOL

I took the seat of a bishop, and enjoyed the harmonious evensong.










York also has its lovely theatre, the Theatre Royal. I went and watched a play, "Can't Stand up for Falling Down". 

It's nice to end a day with a lovely play.














 For dinner, I went to Jamie's Italian. Tried the organic smoked salmon. 
Had a cup of coffee, with lovely pattern on it.

















Here's something I didn't do, but probably worth doing. The York city centre is not big and so walkable, but if you still want to save your energy, you can always board a hop-on-hop-off city bus, for bus tour with audio guide introducing the city.
And also make use of the city map. This one is at the Exhibition centre, just outside the Museum Garden.
The city map looks funny, it's animated.


















Lastly, whilst travelling, don't forget to make friends. This is me and my friend Greg, who is from Canada. We enjoyed York.



This is my experience with York, I might have missed a thing or two here and there, but I think I've covered pretty much everything worth recommending of York, which is a lot. More of the photos of York will be posted on my facebook, feel free to check them out. This is a great trip, and a great start for my many more trips in the UK, and in Europe. 

Next entry, I'll be writing about Bath, the history of it first again, probably in Chinese. Anyway Stay tuned ;).