12/07/2013

York - What to do in York?

Having written about the history of York, in Chinese, in the last entry, I am going to focus more on the tourist attraction in York. York, despite being a forgotten city in modern times, has a relatively mature tourism industry. It's not a surprise given the city's world-class sights and scenic suburban area. Following my trail, you will learn more about what York has to offer.




I lived at a 14-bedded room at Ace York hotel over my 3 days and two nights' stay at York. It is not the best hotel you can find in York, but if you are travelling on a limited budget, this kind of hotel/hostel is definitely backpackers' best friend, satisfying all basic needs at a price almost half of a single-bedded room. 

 The grand look on the outside is another plus.
 I lived in one of these multi-bedded rooms. (from 4 - 14 beds a room, sharing one bathroom cubicle.)












Enough of the living bit of York. Since my hostel is on one side of the River Ouse; and the city centre, where the major tourist attractions reside, is on the other side. So the first thing is to cross the river. There are several bridges linking the two sides of the River Ouse, I usually use Ouse Bridge (closer to my hostel), or Lendal Bridge (closer to the tourist information centre).  

 Greeted by the River Ouse. (from the Lendal Bridge)
 River Ouse on a sunny day.



















It's always advisable to visit the tourist information centre to check out the what's on and special offer before exploring any UK city. 


The TI at York is just on the Museum Street; off the Lendal Bridge, keep walking straight. 






Loads of leaflets and booklets at your disposal. 











It's one of the best thing travelling within the UK that the local council office usually arrange free guided tour by enthusiastic local guide. They don't charge, and they are definitely worth your time. You can check out the departure time and meeting spot at the tourist information centre (usually in the morning, extra trip in the afternoon for weekends).

 Enthusiastic local guide explaining to us what a medieval street looks like.

Normally, there will be around 10 tourists in a group. (could be more in summer.)
















In the guided tour, the local guide will show you around the major historical/tourist sites and tell you the history behind it. British people's passion for their own history is always fascinating. 

St. Mary's Abbey 
You'll learn about how William the Conqueror carried out the cruel "Harrowing of the North", and how his son Rufus built churches to repent for his father's deed; and how Henry VIII demolished the Catholic churches in the times of religious reformation, including the St. Mary's Abbey in York.
Monk Bar
You'll learn about how the Romans, the Saxons and the Normans built city walls to defend their cities. And what practical and symbolic meaning are embodied in the "bars" ( in York, "bar" means gate, "gate" means street) like this one (Monk Bar).

You'll also learn the namesake of the bar, like Monk Bar is so called because there used to be mongers avoid paying tariff, set up booth to sell their stuffs just outside the bar/city. "Mon" + "Bar" thus Monk Bar.
You'll walk the city wall with the group, and feel what it was like when the soldiers in those times performed their duties on these thick walls.
Different symbolic signs on the city walls showing the changing allegiance of the city.
The Shambles, and the little shambles, are the most medieval streets in York. Shambles derived from the word "shammell" meaning a butcher's cutting block, and yes the Shambles used to be a medieval butcher street. 

Harry Potter's scene of Diagon Alley was filmed here!
The gate linking the Shambles and the Newgate Market (a market selling local produce/groceries). 

You can see how narrow the "gate" is, that's the characteristic of "gate", narrow and short, linking between streets.
More of Diagon Alley the Shambles.

The street is really photogenic, epitomising the rest of York.















After the walk, it's time to off exploring myself. York has got its share of museums and they can keep you occupied for the whole day.


Yorkshire Museum. (in the Museum Garden, near the St. Mary's Abbey.)

Greeted by the Roman statue of the God Mars (God of War), Yorkshire museum tells you more about the history of York and showcases the many archaeology in the Roman and Medieval times. It's worth two hours of your stay in York.






The York Castle Museum. (used to be York Prison Building founded by William the Conqueror after the "Harrowing of the North"). 

Now it showcases best of Victorian era and a time tunnel history of York, even of the GB. 
It was a good, sunny day the day I visited York Castle Museum. It's worth 4-5 hours of your time in there.
Just outside the York Castle Museum, there's Clifford's Tower, also founded by William the Conqueror. This tower further fortified the city of York at the time when Norman first came to England and Anglo-saxons still thought of rebelling against the invaders.

It's quite a long staircase. Good exercise before you can take a photo of the area, including a panoramic view of the York Castle Museum, from the vantage point. 

You need to pay to go inside the tower,  £4. I don't think the admission fee is worth its while, so I just climb the stairs and take photos from outside the tower.




Below shows some of York Castle Museum's collection. 


This is a display of what a room in Victorian time would look like.











A room in the Georgian time.
















More room, I think it's around late middle ages.












It also shows British people's quest for a full collection of pottery utensil. 











The Museum also has displays of more serious matter. Like this "Life and Death" session. 

It fleshes out how British people celebrate life and death in different times. 

This picture shows the black cloth Queen Victoria wear for three years in mourn for her husband's, Prince Albert's, death. 









Some classy clock.















Kirkgate 

This is one of my favorite in the museum, this is an reenactment of a street from Victorian era. 

Definitely gives you the taste of how the 19th century street would look like.
 Street photo of Kirkgate.



 Shops in those days did sell all kinds of stuffs.
Pharmacy looks fancy. 


















Next stop is the York Minster. It is the biggest, in size, Gothic Church north of the Alps. Its earliest foundation could trace all the way back to Roman times, and it's also been through middle ages, and Norman times. It also has more stained glass window than the sum of the rest of the UK. UK's 70% of stained glass is on/in this very church. So it's a church very worth visiting, even if you are tired of church and all that because you have been in too many.

 When the sun shines on it, it gives a very beautiful colour on its facet. 
 A Roman column is also displaying outside.
Guarded by the Roman emperor, Constantine I.

The first Catholic Roman Emperor, who was crowned emperor here in York. That's why the York people dedicated a statue to this particular Roman emperor.













 Close up of the pointy roof of the minster.

 The famous York stained glass windows.
 More of it.


The structure inside is amazing too. And it's echo is so good that when the priest makes announcement, he does sound somewhat more "godly", whatever that means.




A zoom-in of the roof net-structured top, it shows the roses symbols, symbolizing the merge of the houses of York and Lancaster. White in the middle and red in the background. (white rose represents house of York and red house of Lancaster.)










 The statues of the 15 kings after William the Conqueror.










Being fit enough and paying extra, you can choose to climb the tower, which I did. The command view of York is worth the arduous climb and the money.
 From the tower through the two lower towers, view of York stretching to the horizon.




From the tower, I zoom close to the St. Mary's Abbey. It certainly looked much smaller from so high up, but thanks to my high power digital camera, still able to capture the abbey clearly. LOL









 In the east wing, there's this grand hall where choir will be performing evensong every night.


It's free to join and experience the minster in spiritual and musical action. You can even take the seat of a bishop, or even archbishop. LOL

I took the seat of a bishop, and enjoyed the harmonious evensong.










York also has its lovely theatre, the Theatre Royal. I went and watched a play, "Can't Stand up for Falling Down". 

It's nice to end a day with a lovely play.














 For dinner, I went to Jamie's Italian. Tried the organic smoked salmon. 
Had a cup of coffee, with lovely pattern on it.

















Here's something I didn't do, but probably worth doing. The York city centre is not big and so walkable, but if you still want to save your energy, you can always board a hop-on-hop-off city bus, for bus tour with audio guide introducing the city.
And also make use of the city map. This one is at the Exhibition centre, just outside the Museum Garden.
The city map looks funny, it's animated.


















Lastly, whilst travelling, don't forget to make friends. This is me and my friend Greg, who is from Canada. We enjoyed York.



This is my experience with York, I might have missed a thing or two here and there, but I think I've covered pretty much everything worth recommending of York, which is a lot. More of the photos of York will be posted on my facebook, feel free to check them out. This is a great trip, and a great start for my many more trips in the UK, and in Europe. 

Next entry, I'll be writing about Bath, the history of it first again, probably in Chinese. Anyway Stay tuned ;).





12/02/2013

約克 - 歷史篇

十一月獨遊約克市 (有異於約克郡, 後者涵括前者。),感覺是這是一個歷史感重,很有地方特色的小城鎮。跟很多英國的城鎮一樣,約克的建築特色或多或少穿插著喬治年代(Georgian era)以及維多利亞年代 (Victorian era) 的新古典/浪漫主義建築風格,但跟其他地方不同的是它的街道有濃厚的中世紀味道,中世紀甚至古典氣色比現代氣色重。約克的歷史成就了它今日的面貌,所以從了解歷史開始,是了解約克最好的第一步。




約克的歷史大致可以分為三段時期。以時序列:羅馬帝國佔領時代,維京入侵及統治時代,以及諾曼佔英及後時代。其中以維京對它的文化影響最深,諾曼以後的歷史痕跡最明顯。

羅馬帝國佔領時代:

在這個時期,約克並不是叫約克。羅馬帝國在公元71年,由 Cerialis 帶領的第九兵團 (Ninth Legion) 佔領"約克",開發它並命名為艾伯拉肯 (Eboracum)。

羅馬人就是看準艾伯拉肯位臨烏茲河 (River Ouse),兩面被河包圍,只要沿河建城就可以輕易防守。羅馬的城牆圍起今日約克的市中心。而羅馬人建的城牆都是矮牆,不是我們今日聯想的高牆寬壁,那些是中世紀諾曼人的建牆風格。


羅馬帝國的歷史任務基本上是為約克奠基。歷史上,三個羅馬帝王曾到艾伯拉肯 "上朝" (hold court),Hadrian, Septimius Severus, Constantine I 。 Hadrian 就是在英格蘭北部建城牆把 "蠻族" 隔在 "世界盡頭" 以外的那個帝王,在約克沒有做過甚麼大事。 Severus 則把約克定為下不列顛 (Britannia Inferior)的首都,為它日後成為英倫重鎮鋪了路。而 Constantine I,君士坦丁(無錯,就是君士坦丁堡 (Constantinople) 的君士坦丁,他是第一個皈依耶教的羅馬帝王,亦是他開建基督教大城君士坦丁堡,即今日的伊斯坦堡。),與艾伯拉肯就有更大的淵源。因為他就是在他父親死後,在艾伯拉肯被推舉為帝王,然後在艾伯拉肯登基的。所以在約克大教堂 (York Minster) 前都有他的雕像。



約克人到了今時今日對這位帝王都有一種尊敬及一份親切感。

羅馬亦在約克建教堂,今日的約克大教堂的基礎就是最早源自羅馬的教堂的。 現在去約克大教堂參觀它的地下室都會見到以前羅馬人的痕跡。

羅馬人最常用的大圓柱,現今長埋地底。

而一些不是埋在地底的羅馬遺跡則依然公眾展覽,例如這條羅馬時期的圓柱。


在公元5世紀,羅馬帝國開始沒落;6世紀,中世紀開始後,羅馬人很快就撤出了約克,甚至不列顛島,撒克遜人 (Saxon)就開始冒起。但是撒克遜在約克的統治並不長久,亦對約克相對沒有重大影響。自維京人 (Viking) 從 Scandinavia 大遷移,約克很快落入維京人的統治,被列入 Danelaw的屬地。當時入侵不列顛島的維京人大都是來自今日的丹麥,故名 "Danelaw"。

維京入侵及統治時代:

維京人稱約克為 "Jorvik", "J"讀 "Y"音。跟今日 "York",中譯約克非常相似。可見維京對約克影響之深遠。

維京人遺留的文化在今日約克人的字典都有跡可尋。他們的 "gate"是街的意思,源自維京語的gatta,他們的 "bar" 反而有 gate 的意思,解作柵欄。著名例子就有 "whip ma whop ma gate":


字義上可以譯作英文的 "what a street"。它是全英最短的街道之一,亦可能是最短。

維京人雖出名殘暴,嗜好搶略(雖然歷史學界就現代人對維京人的這個印象是持可疑的態度。正如維京的武士是不用有角的頭盔,因為一被敵人捉住頭上的角,即在打鬥中處於劣勢,所以有角的頭盔是不合理的。)但是維京人定居後跟英國本土人其實是過住相對相安無事的生活,而一段時期,約克人甚至效忠維京多於撒克遜的貴族。

維京人開放約克為貿易河港,使其經濟開始發展起來。約克亦慢慢升格為政經重地。

因為約克經維京的長時間佔領,到現今考古學家可挖出相當多的維京遺物,隨時比全英加起來更要多。約克市亦開放了幾個維京的文物館,有些更設互動區(Hands-on section),寓歷史於娛樂。

但是自9世紀末 (871年) 阿爾弗雷德大帝 (King Alfred the Great) 在韋塞克斯 (Wessex,or West Saxon)冒起,統一五國分裂局面,把維京趕出英國後,撒克遜又再次恢復對約克的管治。當然後來 King Athelred the Unready (人如其名, unready)的薄弱皇室勢力使維京人有機可乘在 Canute帶領下再入侵英國又為前Danelaw (約克在內)的屬地帶來一段小插曲。但是下一個在約克發生的重要歷史事件就要數在 1066 年中土戰爭 希斯汀戰役(Battle of Hastings)後,英國被諾曼人在征服者威廉 (William the Conqueror)帶領下入侵並長期統治的時代了。

諾曼佔英及後時代:

由於約克經多個政體統治,對維京的效忠尚且苟延,對撒克遜的管治都未完全適應,突然又要向諾曼這個即使來到英國也只講古代法文的軍伐政權表示忠誠;加上約克位處英格蘭北部,跟核心皇權有一段距離;約克對諾曼的統治是非常不情願的。征服者威廉在1068年對約克人感到十分沮喪,竟實行了殘酷的屠城,把約克夷為平地。史稱 (harrowing of the North) 。

征服者威廉更建約克監獄(今日開放為 York Castle Museum) 及高塔,以作平亂之用。

就是在這個時期,英國開始流行高塔厚城牆的。
 約克監獄對出的 Clifford's Tower。塔下的山坡都是人工堆砌出來的,以設制高點。
 前約克監獄,現為 York Castle Museum。


他的兒子 William Rufus 對約克感到抱歉,加上他是虔誠的教徒,所以他在約克建了很多教堂,當中 St. Mary's Abbey 在今日最出名,亦是僅餘的教堂遺跡。為甚麼是"僅餘"?熟悉英史的人應該猜到是跟後來都鐸 (Tudor)皇朝英王亨利八世 (Henry VIII)有關。他實行宗教改革 (Religious Reformation),把英格蘭很多的天主教 (Catholic) 教堂破牆去頂,變為廢墟。St. Mary's Abbey雖難逃厄運,但今日尚剩一面破牆,以作歷史參考。



 St. Mary's Abbey 的廢址在 Museum Garden。

看著這個廢墟可以驚嘆當日的皇權之大,可以建起這麼大一座教堂,又可以把宏偉的教堂打成廢墟。時代的洗滌, St. Mary's Abbey變成今日的模樣;時代的洗滌,約克亦被造就今日的面貌。

約克就是這樣經羅馬,維京,諾曼及後的皇朝打磨成為今日的約克。值得一提的是,約克並不是沒有現代史,只是在現代時期的工業革命,英國的發展偏向了運河流速較快的英格蘭西部,例如曼城 (Manchester),漸漸遺忘了約克這個千年古都,所以約克得以維持它中古的面貌。對於學歷史的人,這絕對是一件好事。而我在約克的歷史氛圍下亦享受了一個週末假期。下一篇文章將會是約克的旅遊篇。 Stay Tuned ;)